I have in fact had a few things going on this summer - although you wouldn't be able to tell that from this blog. My most recent outing was this past weekend. One of my friends here in Madrid - Caridad - invited me and Katie (another friend) to visit her town as it was having a Ferria - what in the U.S. would be a fair or carnival. The celebration includes carnival rides, roast chicken stands, games, markets and a couple of bullfights.
Caridads town is Villarrobledo. It's about a 2 hour train ride from Madrid and has a population of about 30,000 people. Like most towns in Spain they have their own bullring and our first order of business after arriving was to hit the bullfights!
Now, I know bullfighting is not everyone's cup of tea. The hubby and I have been to a few here in Madrid and it's hard not to feel that the odds are stacked pretty well against the bull. But culturally it's an interesting event and there is a certain pageantry to the fights that is always impressive. The bullfights we've been to in the past have been the regular type you see on t.v. - some Picadors get the bull ready for the matador who is on foot and uses his cape to get the bull to perform some passes before killing him.
The bullfight we saw last weekend in Villarrobledo however was a little different. The matador is on horseback for this fight and the horses used are well trained, magnificent animals that are easily the highlight of the whole event. This type of bull fight is called a "rejoneo" and the men on the horse are "rejoneadores" rather than matadors.
The horses really are just beautiful. The above photo is of the three rejoneadors coming out at the beginning of the event for a paseo with their horses. The horses are beautiful Andalucian stallions that are both graceful and brave. They would stand facing the bull and actually charge at the bull to get the bull to charge back and then cut quickly to the side at the last second to allow the rider to stick the bull with the flag or banderillas (colorful sticks). The horses would finish getting chased around the ring by the bull and then perform a little dance or prance for the crowd that we all went wild for.
These rejoneadors are expert riders. This next photo is not the greatest - I'm definitely not going to win any awards as an action journalist - but it's of one of the rejoneadors, after having wrapped the reins of the horse around the saddle, grabbing a banderilla in each hand and galloping toward the bull:
It was all pretty awesome. We sat in front of the President of the local bullfighting authority who scored each fight. When the crowd thought one of the rejoneadores had done particularly well, they waved white hankies - an indication they thought the rejoneador should be awarded the bull's ear (like I said, bull fighting isn't for everyone):
The President then hangs his own white handkerchief over his box to indicate that he is giving an ear to the rejoneador:
I don't know if all of the rejoneadors were really good or the crowd and President were just especially gracious, but all of the rejoneadors were awarded ears for the bulls they killed and one or two were even awarded BOTH ears from the bull. I didn't take pictures of the ears being taken.
After the fight we were off to the fair. They had the usual games and rides that you see at a carnival in the U.S. Here is a photo of Caridad and Katie at the entrance to the fair - the streets leading in to the carnival were all decorated with lights - the town was really pretty that night:
The highlight of the fair in my opinion are the tents serving rotisserie chicken. They served up plates of delicious roast chicken on top of french fries and topped with sauteed green peppers - we then washed it all down with a jug of sangria. It was GOOD!
After meandering around the carnival and market a bit and figuring we had exercised off all that chicken and sangria, we hit one of the many chocolate and churro stands. Man - I L.O.V.E. the whole chocolate and churro thing:
After sleeping in a bit the next day (we had to recover from all of the chicken, sangria and chocolate!) Cari gave us a little tour of Villarrobledo. It's a pretty town - this is the main church and plaza:
There are also several pretty convents and gardens:
The Ferria weekend was really fun and Caridad explained to us that every pueblo in Spain has it's own celebration that usually includes the whole carnival, bullfight and roast chicken experience. Now that I know this I'm planning to map out the local fiestas for the next few months and eat my weight in roast chicken. Or - maybe I'll just try to return to Villarrobledo next year!